The Setting
The space itself feels calm and well-thought-out. You enter through the Tsukimi Lounge, designed around the idea of a harvest moon, before arriving at the main dining room where the grill sits at the centre. Golden drapery overhead and Kumiko panels along the walls add Japanese detail without overwhelming the room. For a more private setting, there’s the Toyama dining room, anchored by a 7.3-metre Shimenawa rope, handcrafted in Japan, a striking cultural emblem that lends the space real presence.
The Meal
The setting makes its impression without taking away from what comes next, the impeccable food. Our dinner began with Japanese milk bread and seaweed butter. The bread was warm and pillowy, the butter creamy and salty, a simple but very satisfying start. This was followed by another stellar, the tuna tartare monaka. Layered with spring onion and wasabi mayo in a crisp shell. It had great texture and a punch of spice.
Next up, we had the salmon tataki, which was lightly seared and came with a sesame and shiso-jalapeño dressing. It was fresh, juicy and carried a perfect hit of heat and spice. The lobster and scallop gyoza were another highlight, with their thin wrappers just crisp enough, tender filling and the ponzu sauce adding just the right bit of tang.
Please hold here for a special mention for the prawn toast. On paper, it sounds simple, it’s prawn toast. Most of us have tried some variation of it. But believe me when I say this was the best I’ve ever had and would highly recommend it. It was creamy, soft, crispy and oh so perfect.
Following the prawn toast was the spicy tuna maki roll, which was light with cucumber and asparagus, balanced with the heat of the mayo.
From the grill, the rock lobster with shiso-lime butter was the undeniable showstopper of the night. Sweet, succulent, perfectly cooked and full of flavour. It felt like the dish that best captured Strawfire’s essence.
We ended the meal with yet another perfection of a dish, very aptly named The Icon. Presented to resemble a strawfire with meringue sticks and gold flecks, layered with coconut and mango unfolded in bright, tropical layers. A refreshing finish to bring the evening full circle.
The service at Strawfire matches the setting. The staff offered thoughtful explanations of each dish, from its ingredients to the idea behind it, which made the meal all the more special.
In Conversation with Chef Ross Shonhan
I also had the pleasure of picking Chef Ross Shonhan’s brain about Strawfire, his journey and his connection to Japanese cuisine.
You started your culinary career at just 15 in a butcher’s shop in Queensland. Looking back, how did those early experiences shape you as a chef today?
Those early days taught me respect for ingredients at their most fundamental level. In a butcher’s shop, nothing is wasted, you learn about precision, discipline, and the stories behind where food comes from.
You’ve worked across Australia, the UK, the US and the Middle East. What have been some of the most defining moments in your journey?
Each chapter gave me something unique. Australia taught me resourcefulness. In London, I learned about the intensity and discipline of big-city restaurants. In the US, the scale of hospitality and in the Middle East, the opportunity to merge cultures and tell stories through food.
The most defining moments weren’t the awards or accolades. They were the times I faced challenges and stepped outside my comfort zone, which ultimately led to my greatest personal and professional growth.
Japanese cuisine has been a constant thread in your career. What continues to inspire your connection to it?
Japanese cuisine is an endless journey of refinement. It’s precise yet poetic, rooted in tradition but always evolving. What keeps me inspired is how much depth there still is to explore, from the mastery of fire cooking like warayaki, to the seasonality and respect for nature. It feels endless.
What drew you to Abu Dhabi and Strawfire at the Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental?
Abu Dhabi has a unique energy, it’s cosmopolitan yet deeply connected to tradition. Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental felt like the perfect stage to bring Strawfire to life: a place that celebrates luxury but is equally about warmth and hospitality.
Strawfire reflects your journeys through Japan. In what ways do the menu and design capture those experiences for your guests?
The menu is built around warayaki, cooking over burning straw, which I first discovered in Kochi. It’s primal, dramatic, and yet produces subtle, clean flavours. The design mirrors that journey: the interplay of fire and smoke, natural textures, and moments that feel intimate but also theatrical. It’s not just dining; it’s storytelling.
How does Strawfire differ from your past projects?
Strawfire is more personal. It’s not about following trends but about distilling years of travel, discovery, and practice into something authentic. It’s a project where I’ve been able to build from the ground up with complete creative freedom.
How do you approach creating a dining experience that feels memorable beyond the food?
For me, it’s about layers. The food is the anchor, but the way guests are welcomed, the design of the room, the pacing of the service, even the scent of smoke in the air, these details linger. People remember how you made them feel long after the last bite.
What role do you see the UAE playing in shaping the global future of dining?
The UAE is already a crossroads of cultures, and its dining scene reflects that. What excites me is the openness to new ideas, the willingness to celebrate both heritage and innovation. The UAE is becoming a stage where global dining trends are not just imported but reimagined.
After so many years of working with Japanese cuisine, is there still something new you recently discovered that surprised you?
Yes, I recently spent time revisiting regional Japanese dishes that rarely make it outside of their hometowns. Curious items like Beni Shoga Tempura, Red pickled ginger Tempura, typical of Osaka, fun dishes that people perhaps don’t expect or easily encounter.
What are some challenges you’ve had to face throughout your career?
The biggest challenge has been balancing creativity with resilience. Kitchens are intense places, and building restaurants is even tougher. Delays, risks, and setbacks are part of the process. What keeps me grounded is remembering why I started: the joy of cooking and creating experiences.
When you look back at your journey so far, what achievement are you proudest of?
I’m proudest of creating restaurants that became more than just places to eat, they became memories for people. We have had people come to our restaurant for a first date then they got married and have come back every year. That’s amazing to be part of people’s lives like that.
What advice would you give to young chefs starting out today, especially those hoping to work with Japanese cuisine?
Be patient and humble. Japanese cuisine is not about shortcuts. It takes time, discipline, and respect for tradition. Learn the fundamentals properly, travel if you can, and never stop being curious.
How do you define success at this stage in your career?
Success now is about creating something lasting. It’s not just about opening doors, but ensuring what we build has depth and meaning. If Strawfire inspires next generation of young chefs, delights guests, and stands the test of time, that’s success.
Quick-Fire
One ingredient you swear by?
Miso paste in places you don’t think, like Western foods.
Your guilty-pleasure meal?
BBQ duck and rice.
The last dish that blew your mind (not your own)?
The anchovy éclair at Lilibet’s London.
Coffee or tea?
Coffee most of the day, tea at night.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be doing?
No idea, I have no other real interests.
Most underrated dish on the Strawfire menu?
Perhaps our spaghetti mentaiko.
What’s always in your fridge at home?
Cheese.
Favourite city for food?
Osaka, Tokyo.
What do you do in your off time?
Think about food.
