I’ve attended numerous chef collaborations but nothing has ever felt quite like this one. With the focus entirely on the food, warm, comforting and made to be shared in a room filled with a vibrant sense of community.
Many Hands at Harummanis
Held in an intimate space, the evening began with a few words from both chefs, who explained why, instead of calling it a “four hands” dinner, as these collaborations often are, they chose “Many Hands” to honour the team. Because, as they put it, it wasn’t just about the chefs. It was about the whole team: the cooks, the servers, the people behind the scenes who made it all come together.
The first detail to catch my eye was the absence of cutlery. Instead, our plates were made of fresh banana leaves, a clear invitation to dig in with our hands. This communal, hands-on approach instantly dissolved any formality, turning the meal into a festive get-together.. The entire atmosphere was so genuinely warm and inviting that it felt more like a cherished family gathering at home than a restaurant. When I shared this very thought with Chef JP Anglo, he just smiled and said, “That’s exactly what we were aiming for. Welcome home.”
The Food
The food flowed endlessly, served straight from family-style rotating platters and pots. Servers kept bringing out more dishes, warmly encouraging us to eat to our hearts’ content. It was bottomless. Servers moved through the tables with warmth, offering seconds (and thirds) with no hesitation. “Have more,” they’d say. “You’d like this” “Let me bring you some more.” It felt generous in the truest sense.
It was an unlimited feast of rich, complex flavours, starting with Pulut Serunding, a savoury glutinous rice dish with fish floss and toasted hazelnuts, with a succulent Lechon Manok roasted chicken. I could have eaten it all night long.
Then came Ayam Masak Merah fried chicken in a vibrant red sauce, while the Sayur Nangka brought a beautiful balance of white jackfruit, sweet potato, and coconut. The Shrimp Binakoi came with plump shrimp swimming in a rich coconut broth, and the Beef Belly with Burnt Coconut was a tender, deeply satisfying dish bathed in a coconut sauce with a hint of shrimp paste oil.
Usually, with any dinner experience, there are one or two dishes that take the crown but at Harumannis, every course felt like the star of the night. Each one topped the last and I kept eating well past the point of being full.
Alongside the mains, we were served a treasure trove of sides, including spicy sambal belacan, crispy prawn crackers, and tangy atchara, which provided perfect flavour complements.
As the finale, we were treated to Halo Halo Ais Kacang, a mashup of two shaved ice classics from the Philippines and Malaysia with beans, jellies, crushed ice, condensed milk and would you believe it, corn and sweet potato. On paper, it doesn’t sound like a combination which would work but it was truly exceptional.
The verdict
The overall warmth, welcoming nature, and intimacy of the dinner made it a truly memorable experience. It was a beautiful testament to what happens when incredible food is shared with genuine hospitality.
