Watch collectors and enthusiasts will tell you that men’s timepieces have been steadily shrinking in size for some time now. In line with this trend, Swiss watchmaker Blancpain has unveiled a more compact iteration of its iconic Fifty Fathoms model.
But Blancpain is far from alone. From high-end Swiss manufacturers to more accessible luxury brands, watchmakers across the board are embracing smaller designs for men. The era of oversized 45 mm watches dominating wrists appears to be waning.
A Brief History of Watch Sizes
During the early to mid-2000s, watch sizes surged dramatically. Timepieces became bold and ostentatious, loudly proclaiming masculinity with hefty cases and wide dials. Prior to that, in the late 1950s, men’s watches were far more modest—typically around 34 mm, with classic dress watches ranging from 30 to 36 mm. As with all fashion trends, watch sizes have followed a cyclical pattern, ebbing and flowing with the times.
The Current Shift
Since 2023, we’ve witnessed a noticeable shift towards smaller watches, with new releases commonly measuring 40 mm, 38 mm, and even 36 mm. (You can imagine my excitement when I inherited a 38 mm Seiko Kinetic from my grandfather.)
Luxury brands such as Cartier and Omega, along with Nomos and Grand Seiko, have all introduced more compact designs to their collections. TAG Heuer has joined the movement too, reissuing the 36 mm Carrera Date from the 1960s.
In 2025, retro watches are firmly a trend, and interestingly, unisex designs are also on the rise. Rolex has ramped up production of its 36 mm and 34 mm models, with the Oyster Perpetual 34 emerging as a favourite this year. It’s clear: men’s watches are getting smaller.
The Blancpain 38 mm Fifty Fathoms
When Blancpain introduced the Fifty Fathoms in 1953, it was hailed by the brand as “the world’s first true diver’s watch”. The original model featured a 42 mm case, and over the years, standard sizes became 42 mm and 45 mm—until now. In 2025, Blancpain has embraced the trend and released three new 38 mm models designed for both men and women.
“The Fifty Fathoms is much more than a diver’s watch—it’s a symbol of exploration and innovation,” said Marc A. Hayek, Blancpain’s President and CEO. “With the addition of new models, we’re responding to a clear demand while reaffirming that this collection was always meant for all wrists.”
The new models are available in three colourways. The first features a polished stainless steel case with a black dial and bezel, evoking the original 1950s Fifty Fathoms. It will retail at $17,200. The second sports a titanium case with a striking blue dial and bezel, priced at $18,400. The third is crafted from 18-carat red gold, also paired with a blue dial and bezel, retailing at $31,400.
All three watches are powered by Blancpain’s in-house calibre 1150, offering an impressive 100-hour power reserve, visible through the sapphire case back.
