Located within the sleek confines of Edition Hotel in Downtown Dubai, KEN is not just a fine-dining restaurant; it’s a fully immersive omakase journey where design, artistry, and culinary mastery intersect. KEN promises an unparalleled feast that not only satisfies the palate but also the senses and at the heart of it all is the owner and chef, Ken Kamatsuda, guiding each aspect of the place with a quiet mastery.
Front Row Seat at the VIP Counter
I was fortunate to dine at the coveted VIP counter at KEN, an intimate setting which offered a clear view of the open kitchen. Being seated there and watching the chefs move with steady focus, preparing and grilling each course in front of us, added another layer of grandeur to the evening.
Before the first course was served, a short calligraphy performance took place at the centre of the room. UAE-based Japanese calligraphy artist Suiho painted gold-leaf strokes onto a glass panel in front of a kimono embroidered with traditional Japanese motifs. It was a quiet moment that marked the start of the night.
The Food
The menu at KEN revolves around the legendary A5-grade Awa Wagyu, which I learned is one of the rarest and most sought-after beef varieties in the world and is currently available exclusively at KEN in the Middle East. Thanks to Chef Ken Kamasuda’s close relationship with top Japanese suppliers built through his work as a judge for the “Undiscovered Gems of Japan” awards, the menu also carries ingredients that are rarely found even within Japan.
The first course was the Luxury Bowl layered with buttery Hokkaido scallops, Oscietra caviar, and melt-in-your-mouth Wagyu wrapped in seaweed and kissed with Yoshino River green nori. Followed by a pristine seafood nigiri and Wagyu Niku Sushi, lightly torched and brushed with a remarkable reduction, the beef melting into kombu-infused rice in a bite that was perfectly rich and refined.
Next came the Cutlet Sandwich, a decadent standout. A thick slice of Wagyu tenderloin, dipped in garlic butter and nestled between soft, slightly sweet brioche. The accompanying sauce, aged for a week using a base of simmered vegetables, added depth to the sandwich without overpowering the meat.
Another standout for me was the Unkai or Sea of Cloud, inspired by the sea of clouds that rest atop Mount Fuji, made with charcoal-seared wagyu tataki and an acidic basil oil and an apple-onion sauce.
The undisputed star of the evening was the Wagyu Steak, char-grilled in front of us and sliced into perfect rectangles..
I was able to steal a few moments of Chef Ken’s time, where he shared a few insights into the thinking behind KEN, from his ingredient choices to the way each dish is constructed
︎”The Wagyu steak holds a deep personal and cultural significance for me. It has been a constant presence throughout my culinary journey, an expression of my craft and the philosophy that defines it. Wagyu is one of Japan’s most revered ingredients and highlighting its natural flavour through simplicity requires exceptional precision.”
It’s also one of the most challenging dishes Chef Ken has worked on.
“Its simplicity is deceptive, it’s technically demanding and every element must be finely calibrated. There is no room for error. The challenges are even greater in Dubai due to differences in climate, the intense heat and the condition of the Wagyu after it has undergone overseas transport.
Even the finest beef requires highly sensitive handling to bring out its true character. For me, it is a true test of technique and instinct. More than that, it is a symbol of Japanese craftsmanship, an elegant, disciplined expression of what it means to be a chef committed to excellence.”
“Beyond its technical demands, it represents my mission to convey the aesthetics of Japan through cuisine..”
The meal continued with the Awa Wagyu Sukiyaki, a silky sirloin, poached egg, and a slow-simmered Tokyo-style sauce. The final savoury course was the Japanese Pot Rice, topped with Wagyu and seafood, and finished with a sauce made from apples, leeks, and ginger.
The desserts mirrored the omakase’s quiet elegance. First, a homemade coconut ice cream parfait, prepared tableside and paired with pineapple that served as the perfect palate cleanser after an incredibly decadent dinner. Then a final course of kuzumochi, a delicate Japanese arrowroot jelly drizzled with kuromitsu syrup, brought the experience to a beautiful close.
The Space
Beyond the food, what stood out most at KEN was how carefully everything had been composed. The restaurant’s design is an extension of its minimalist culinary philosophy, rich in cultural references. Gold-lined walls mimic the art of Kintsugi, complemented by ikebana arrangements by Ryota Hagiwara, original calligraphy by Bisen Aoyagi and a multitude of Japanese artworks. No inch has been left to chance. Even the cutlery pays homage to Japanese craftsmanship. The space exudes warmth with the natural wood, bonsai trees, and soft lighting.
Chef Ken’s ability to balance restraint, tradition and originality is what makes KEN so special.
As he shared with me:
“At KEN, we aim to deliver more than a meal, we offer something immersive that reflects the heart of Japan. From the selection of ingredients to the precision of technique and the spirit of Omotenashi (Japanese hospitality), every aspect is crafted to engage the five senses. Each plate carries with it the pride of craftsmanship and the intention to convey a deeper story.
I want each guest to feel the quiet elegance, precision, and emotional depth of Japanese culture throughout their visit. When they leave the restaurant, we hope that they carry with them not just a memory of flavour, but a feeling, something warm and lasting that resonates beyond the table.”
